Sewing Pattern Terminology
This guide explains common sewing terms used in Jane Harbison Design sewing patterns.
It is designed to help you quickly check the meaning of a term while you sew, without cluttering your pattern instructions.
| Term | Description |
|---|---|
| Grainline | The direction of the fabric’s weave, shown by an arrow on the pattern piece. Pattern pieces are placed so the grainline runs parallel to the selvedge for proper drape and fit. |
| Selvedge | The finished edge of the fabric that does not fray. Grainline runs parallel to the selvedge. |
| Bias | A 45° angle to the grainline. Fabric cut on the bias has more stretch and drape. |
| Seam Allowance | The distance between the stitching line and the raw edge of the fabric. Seam allowance built into Jane Harbison Design sewing patterns is 1.5cm unless otherwise indicated in the sewing pattern instructions. |
| Notches | Small marks or clips used to match pattern pieces together accurately during construction. |
| Baste | A temporary stitch used to hold fabric in place before final sewing. Machine setting may vary by fabric and machine, but a longer stitch length such as W3.5 / L3.5 can be used as a guide unless otherwise indicated in the sewing pattern instructions. |
| Bartack | A short reinforcing zig-zag stitch used at stress points such as fly openings or welt pocket ends. Machine setting may vary by fabric and machine, but W2–3 / L0.3–0.5 can be used as a guide unless otherwise indicated in the sewing pattern instructions. |
| Overlock / Serge / Zig Zag | Stitches used to finish raw edges and prevent fraying. |
| Pink / Pinking | Cutting fabric edges with pinking shears to reduce fraying. |
| Right Side | The visible side of the fabric that shows on the outside of the finished garment. |
| Wrong Side | The inside or back side of the fabric. |
| Edge Stitch | Stitching sewn close to the finished edge of the fabric. Unless otherwise indicated in the sewing pattern instructions, edge stitching is sewn 2–3mm from the edge. |
| Topstitch | Visible stitching sewn on the outside of the garment. Unless otherwise indicated, single topstitching is sewn 3mm from the edge. Double topstitching is sewn with the first row 2mm from the edge and the second row 5mm from the first row. |
| Understitch | Stitching sewn on the inside to keep a facing from rolling outward. |
| Interfacing | Material used to add structure to parts of a garment. |
| Fusible Interfacing | Interfacing that bonds with heat from an iron. |
| Press | Using an iron to set stitches or shape fabric. |
| On the Fold | A pattern piece placed along a folded edge to create a symmetrical piece. |
| Ease | Extra room built into a garment for comfort and movement. |
| Stitch in the Ditch | Stitching directly in an existing seam line so stitches are less visible. |
| Backstitch | Stitches sewn forward and backward to secure a seam. |
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