How To Sew A Pocket Square

 

How to sew a sophisticated Pocket Square for his next special occasion and a simple trick to making mitred corners pointy. A beautiful gift to make for a formal, graduation, wedding or ball.


Written by Jane Harbison, sewing pattern and fabric designer specialising in boys' and men's clothing, colour tools and wearable handmade gifts.

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How sew mens pocket square

Why Make A Man's Pocket Square

The Pocket Square is timeless and one of the most popular suit accessories you can make. And why wouldn't you make it when a Gucci Pocket Square costs over A$300.

Before I share how to make one, I want to share the origins of the humble yet sophisticated Pocket Square.

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How To Make Satin Pocket Square

What Is A Pocket Square?

A Pocket Square is a decorative square piece of sewn fabric. It is generally smaller in size than a handkerchief, which is more functional in nature.

Pocket Squares typically range in size from around 10 x 10 inch up to 17 x 17 inch depending on the fabric used.

Thicker materials (cotton/linen) are generally easier to fold in smaller sizes; however, thinner materials (silk/satin) require a larger size so that they don't lose their shape.

Fabric design by Jane Harbison

Origins Of The Pocket Square

Although it is commonly thought the origins of the Pocket Square originated in the 17th Century, it's predecessor, the handkerchief dates back to the Ancient Egyptians and Greeks.

The wealthiest Egyptians and Greeks were known to carry small white linen handkerchiefs, commonly thought to be used for the sole purpose of personal hygiene and cleanliness.

It wasn't until the 19th Century that the Pocket Square really made it's mark with the advent of the two piece suit. Hollywood movie stars making it fashionable and popular.

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  • What Is A Pocket Square Made Of?

    The handkerchief was originally made of white linen or cotton, but we also now associate it with silks and satins.

    The Ancient Greeks turned the handkerchief from a functional item to an elaborate accessory, embellishing it with scent, decorative motifs and natural dyes.

    At that time it was still something that was kept in the trouser pocket, but in the 19th Century men were looking for ways to accessories their suits and the Pocket Square in it's all it's silk glory was the perfect fit.

  • How To Care For Your Pocket Square

    Caring for satin or silk has its tricks including flour to remove oily stains before you wash. Like anything, the more care we take with something, the longer it will last.

How To Make A Pocket Square With Mitred Corners

Below are step by step written instructions but I have also made a video tutorial for you to download free.

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  • How To Make A Pocket Square With Mitred Corners.

    Free step by step video tutorial with a secret tip to getting those corners pointy. Enter your name and email and we will send you the link.
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  • Materials Needed

    Fabric for men's pocket square (for show)

    Cotton or Linen or wool/silk blend - 33cm x 33cm (12"x12" - includes 1.5cm seam allowance), Cotton thread (e.g Rasant), machine need size 10-12 (70-80) for light weight Linens and Cotton / Cotton Lawn (70)

    Satin - 40 - 45cm (16" to 17"). I like 44.5cm x 44.5cm (includes 1.5cm seam allowance) use an extra fine mercerised Cotton or 100% polyester thread, sewing machine needle size 9-11 (65-75)

    Set your stitches to about 10-15 stitches per inch.

    Silk - 44.5cm x 44.5cm (includes 1.5cm seam allowance), extra fine mercerised Cotton (preferred) or fine polyester thread, fine sewing machine needle size 9-12 (65-80 ) or a small-size topstitching needle.

    Other Needs

    Scissors or rotary cutter and cutting board, long fine sharp pins (especially for silk or satin) or sewing clips.

    Men's Handkerchief (for blow)
    You can use the same approach for a handkerchief which is usually smaller - 33cm x 33cm (12" x 12").

    A Ladies handkerchief is typically smaller still 25cm x 25cm (10" x 10").

  • Step By Step Instructions

    • Cut a square of fabric to the desired size for your pocket square. A common size is about 10 inches by 10 inches.
    • Zig zag or overlock edges.
    • Mark a dot 1.5cm from edge in each corner with a water soluble marker. Be acurate with this step so when you go to turn your mitres over they are all the same size and sit flat when you top stitch.
    • Fold the edges of the square over .5cm and press with an iron. Fold over again 1cm and iron.
    • Take each corner and fold diagonally across the corner mark. Press with iron to make a diagonal crease. This is the line you will use to sew along.
    • Open up your pocket square again to lay flat now with all the pressed creases on it.
    • Next you sew each corner separately.
    • Take one corner and put the right sides together matching two side seams together to make a right angled triangle. Pin/Clip making sure your .5cm seam is still folded over.
    • Sew along the diagonal crease making sure to back stitch at both ends so the seam holds.
    • Repeat this for each of the four corners.
    • Next is to turn out your corners so they are pointy.
    • Do not trim your fabric before turning out. Instead open and press the excess fabric flat so it makes a little diamond shape. Then with your fingers turn out each corner.
    • Press flat with a warm iron.
    • Pin/Clip to hold seams in place read to top stitch.
    • Topstitch with a straight stitch, 3/8in from the edge making sure to catch the folded zig zag edge underneath.
    • You can do a second topstitch around the edges of the pocket square to secure the fold in place. This is optional, but it can give the pocket square a neater appearance.
    • You can also hand-sew the edges if you prefer.


    This will create a clean, finished edge for your pocket square.

    Once the edges are sewn, you can fold the pocket square into a desired shape. Some popular shapes include the "Presidential" fold, the "One-Point" fold, and the "Two-Point" fold as shown below.


    That's it! With these steps, you should now have a beautifully sewn pocket square.

Match Your Pocket Square In Style

When you struggle with what fabric and colours to use

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How To Fold A Puff Fold Pocket Square

6 Ways To Fold A Pocket Square

Now that you have made your Pocket Square, how do you wear it?

For a neat and polished look, always make sure that the pocket square is ironed and free of wrinkles before folding.

Also it is good to match the colour or pattern of the pocket square with the tie, lapel or dress of your partner.

Here are six ways to fold your Pocket Square.

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  • How To Fold A Presidential Fold Pocket Square

    Presidents Fold Pocket Square

    • Start by laying the pocket square flat on a surface.
    • Fold the pocket square in half diagonally, creating a triangle shape.
    • Fold the triangle in half again, creating a smaller triangle.
    • Fold the top point of the triangle down, creating a neat, rectangular shape.
    • Tuck the folded pocket square into the breast pocket of your jacket, with the folded edge facing up.
  • How To Fold A Triangle Single Point Pocket Square

    One-Point Fold Pocket Square

    • Start by laying the pocket square flat on a surface.
    • Fold the pocket square in half diagonally, creating a triangle shape.
    • Fold the triangle in half again, creating a smaller triangle.
    • Fold the bottom point of the triangle up, so that it just peeks out above the top edge of the pocket.
    • Tuck the folded pocket square into the breast pocket of your jacket, with the folded edge facing up.
  • How To Fold A Two Point Pocket Square

    Two-Point Fold Pocket Square

    • Start by laying the pocket square flat on a surface.
    • Fold the pocket square in half diagonally, creating a triangle shape.
    • Fold the triangle in half again, creating a smaller triangle.
    • Fold the top point of the triangle down, creating a neat, rectangular shape.
    • Fold the bottom point of the triangle up, so that it just peeks out above the top edge of the pocket.
    • Fold the left and right points of the triangle towards the centre, forming a three-pointed shape.
    • Tuck the folded pocket square into the breast pocket of your jacket, with the folded edge facing up.

  • Four-Point Fold Pocket Square

    • Start by laying the pocket square flat on a clean surface.
    • Fold the square in half diagonally, creasing it firmly.
    • Fold the top and bottom edges of the triangle towards the centre crease, so that the two folded edges meet.
    • Fold the left and right sides of the rectangle towards the centre crease, so that all four edges meet in the middle.
    • Insert the folded pocket square into your jacket pocket with the four points facing out.
  • How To Fold A Puff Fold Pocket Square

    Puff Fold Pocket Square

    • Start with the pocket square laid flat on a surface.
    • Pinch the center of the pocket square with your fingers.
    • Lift the pocket square, allowing the fabric to naturally gather around your pinched center.
    • Adjust the gathered fabric to form a puff-like shape in the center.
    • Hold the puff tightly at the base and use your other hand to gently tuck it into your breast pocket.
    • Once in the pocket, fluff the edges of the puff for a fuller look. Adjust until you achieve the desired shape.
  • How To Fold A Stair Fold Pocket Square

    Three Stair Pocket Square

    • Lay the pocket square flat on a surface in diamond shape.
    • First fold the top 1/4 of the diamond under away from you.
    • Take the left and right points of the diamond and fold centre up towards the first fold leaving 1cm from the edge.
    • Fold the bottom 1/4 of the diamond up towards the centre fold leaving 1cm. You will have a layered rectangle shape with pointy ends.
    • Then vertical fold in half down the middle.
    • Fold in left edge so you can place neatly in the pocket.
    • Tuck the folded pocket square into your breast pocket, with the stair-like edges facing up. Adjust as needed to achieve a balanced and stylish appearance.

Pocket Squares Aren't Just for Formal Suits